Bacterial Wilt

Hi Barry

I have been reading your blog and was wondering if you would have any ideas why my cherry tomato's keep wilting and dying. I had a great crop of them last year but so far this year have had no success getting them past a certain stage. They don't do it all at once, it seems to happen to one or two plants at a time. They will be OK for awhile and then I will lose some more. These plants are all self seeded but seem quite strong otherwise until they succumb to the wilting. I have attached a photo so you can see what I mean. I have alot of plants there and need to thin some out but I am afraid to get rid of too many in case the rest all die again. Also some of them developed white areas on the leaves but not necessary the ones which wilted and died.
Any suggestions on what might be causing this?
Much appreciated if you do have any advice.

Hi Claire,

I’ve actually just been thinking about this as I had the same question. It is a big problem with tomatoes especially for us in the tropics and particularly as it’s been so wet and I’d say a little hotter and more humid this winter, which makes this problem worse.

I suspect bacterial wilt Ralstonia solanacearum (= Pseudomonas solanacearum)



Check weather the wilting occurs on the youngest leaves first? The plant may recover at night then after a couple of days completely wilt. You could double check it’s bacterial wilt by cutting a portion of the stem and placing it in a glass of water – there will be a whitish bacterial ooze if it's bacterial wilt.



I suggest you take out the infected plants and put in the bin or burn, so no other areas become infected.

Disinfect any tools used in the area with bleach.



Do you have any other area to grow tomatoes – this current area could be used to grow some veggies not in the solanaceae family which includes egg plant, capsicum and potato.



Unfortunately the bacteria can now last in you soil after the host plant is removed, it may be about 3-4 years before it’s safe to plant solanaceae family there.



The problem can be controlled by rotating your tomatoes to different areas each year, planting in raised beds to ensure the root section has adequate drainage and oxygen. Composting your soil will encourage a diversity of organisms so it’s difficult for one to dominate – bacterial wilt often gains access to the tomatoes roots by nematodes feeding.



You could also graft some tomato onto devils apple egg plant I mention in my blog and I have done this year at the veggie garden at Freshwater state school.

That white spot on the leaves looks fungal – make sure you only water in the morning so excess moisture has a chance to dry out during the day as wet leaves at night make it easier for this fungi to get hold.